VALGRAYS BORDER COLLIE RESCUE

Border Collies Needing New 'Forever Homes' reg charity 1088503

See training links and highly recommended training books below

Border Collies as Pets  (reprinted with kind permission of the Border Collie Trust GB)

BORDER COLLIES AS PETS

Many people misunderstand the Border Collie and its behaviour patterns, the following is just a brief insight into some of the aspects of owning a Border Collie

Remember what the dog was bred for - TO CHASE AND HERD. This instinct varies from collie to collie but we should always assume it is present. Do not allow the dog to chase people, children, cats, cars, bikes, trains, or livestock. Start with a new dog by NOT taking it out. As a new owner the dog will not see you as having the right to control it's behaviour. Remember that the more exercise and excitement that you give a Border Collie, the higher its adrenaline levels will be. It can take weeks/months for these levels to come back to normal. Puppies under 7/8 months should have very little walking on leads. Short sessions of up to 20 minutes only. (You wouldn't take a toddler on a 10-mile hike would you?)

Adult collies need a fair amount of exercise off the lead, which needs to be filled with events which make it think. Build up time slowly, as obedience and muscle develop. A few minutes of recall, heelwork, hide & seek, fetch toy, with a period of free running. Collies will anticipate your actions so during the walk call the dog, put on lead and then release, don't wait until the walk has finished to produce the lead, he'll know it's home time and run off. Physically prevent the dog from chasing, by keeping it on a long line - a washing line, which you can reel in. Teach the dog to find things, hide a tit-bit and play "find it". Great game for rainy days. Keep your collie well socialised. If it shows fear of anything by barking, lunging, bolting, hiding, DO NOT touch the dog, walk on - assuming its on a lead, say nothing. Do not expose the dog to stress. If you speak to the dog or touch it, you are praising it for that behaviour. Teach the dog that being with you is better than anything else. You will need to be interesting. Tit-bits, games. Offer alternative behaviour to the unacceptable ones. DO NOT use check chains or half checks, force, punishment, shouting, or smacking.

Collies and small children together are a potential problem. Toddlers are on the same eye level and stare. This is a challenge to any dog, particularly a collie. Children make high-pitched noises and sudden movements which can trigger collies. The dog must not be allowed to run up and down with children. It will get more and more excited and start jumping up and pulling at clothes or try to herd the children by nipping.

A collie must be kept occupied or it will go self-employed. Indoor kennels are great to give the dog a safe den. Leave it something it can chew and remove the toy when the dog has something else to do. Their toys are your toys. Retain at the end of the game. Collies like to be part of the team and crave companionship of humans. Don't leave a collie alone all day. Three to four hours maximum for an adult, providing you give quality time later. Don't let the dog follow you from room to room, it should spend some time in it's bed alone when you are in. Chewing is common, boredom or separation anxiety Is often the cause. Shadow chasing is common in collies. Distract, remove source of light rays if possible and offer an alternative - stuff a kong, activity ball or buster cube. Collies are problem-solving dogs, give them problems to deal with other than fetching the washing off the line. You can teach a collie tricks. Closing doors, taking the video out of the recorder - there's no limit except your imagination and patience.

If you are a first time owner or considering having a pup you may be interested in a DVD,
New Owners Guide to Border Collie. Featuring advice from a Trainer, a Vet and a Behaviourist which will help you gain an insight and understanding of collies - On sale in The Collie Shop

REMEMBER - IF YOU HAVE A BORDER COLLIE
MAKE SURE THE IQ IS ON THE RIGHT END OF THE LEAD!

So you want a Border Collie?  (reprinted with kind permission of the Border Collie Trust GB)

So what is your Border Collie NOT good at...............?

The following article was sent to us by Sue Kinchin, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers
and gives an interesting alternative insight into what makes Collies so special.


If you have a Border Collie you have a very special dog; a dog that is intelligent, sensitive, eager to please and very quick to learn. Sounds like the perfect pet? Yes, with our help they can make wonderful pets, but we need to remember that when we take one of these very special and complex dogs into our homes we have a responsibility to try to understand all the factors that make a Border Collie what it is. The more we can understand our Border Collies the less likely it is that we, and our collie, will encounter serious problems. Border Collies have been bred for generations in a very specific and restricted environment for a very specific task and, as a breed, are relative new-comers to life as pets. Some cope very well and others struggle. It is our duty to try to understand these beautiful, clever creatures and to help them to cope.

We can easily find books that tell us what Border Collies have been bred for. We will be warned about their sensitivity to movement and tendency to chase things and about the fact that they need to have their brains occupied, but what we are not generally asked to think about are those characteristics that are not necessary in a working sheepdog, but which make life easier for a pet dog.

Anyone who has owned Border Collies will be aware that they are generally cautious dogs. Without intensive and sensitive socialisation as puppies they are often wary of people, intolerant of unfamiliar dogs and anxious about anything new or changing. Even with intensive socialisation some retain these characteristics. Border Collies are prone to being affected by a single bad experience and have poor "bounce back" when something goes wrong for them. They are very sensitive to reprimands, but equally crave guidance and instruction. Because they are very sensitive to movement, any fast movement that they cannot control can be very disturbing to them. No wonder so many Border Collies hate traffic. Remember though, it is this sensitivity and intelligence that we find so appealing.

So why are they like this? Why can life upset them so easily? To understand our collies fully we need not only to consider what they have been bred for,.but also what they have not been bred for.

When a shepherd is selecting dogs to breed from he is selecting for a specific task and characteristics that do not interfere with this task are likely to be ignored.

Over the generations your Collie has NOT been bred to:

Cope with noise..... Collies need to have very acute hearing to hear and interpret a shepherd's signals at a great distance, but sheep farms are generally quiet places and their sensitive hearing does not cause them problems. Urban and domestic life bombards our dogs with noise and this can cause them extreme stress. Be aware of this and if necessary protect your dog from excessive noise. Speak quietly to your Collie, he doesn't need you to shout at him.

Cope with change..... sheep farms tend to be relatively unchanging places, there are sheep, the shepherd and his family, the barn where the dog sleeps and an odd tractor or car. Sheep dogs don’t generally need to cope with change. Every time our urban collie leaves home the street outside will probably have changed (new vehicles, new people, rubbish skips etc.). Just going out for a walk, even if the dog looks forward to his walk, can generate stress and we need to be aware of this and help him cope.

Cope with the presence of strangers/visitors or groups of people…. Sheep farms tend to be isolated places. It is not necessary to be at ease with people to be a good working sheep dog. In a pet home our dogs are surrounded by many strange people in the street and visitors to the home. If you get your Collie as a puppy make sure he is sensitively socialised to people at an early age. If he is older respect the fact that he may find meeting strange people stressful.

Cope with the presence of strange dogs......... apart from the familiar dogs with similar characteristics that live on the farm with them, working sheepdogs are unlikely to need to mix with other dogs. As pet owners we expect them to meet a lot of strange dogs, many with appalling “dog manners”, and often with our dog on a lead so that it does not have the option of running away. Even if your collie does not react aggressively in these situations he could well be very stressed.

Many sheepdogs will never leave their farms so traditionally they haven't really needed to get on with other dogs or unfamiliar people. Sociability and resilience are not characteristics that have historically been important in the development of the Border Collie. Although your dog may not be directly from working stock he will still have many of the characteristics inherited from generations of working sheep dogs and equally he may not have inherited those characteristics that would make life in a pet home easier for him.

Shepherds are the experts with Border Collies and we can learn a lot from them. Yes, we've all heard of harsh and callous shepherds, but many value their dogs very highly, not just as working dogs, but also as members of their family. Watch a sheepdog working, it is referring back to the shepherd for guidance all the time. His impulses to chase and control movement are under very tight control. The shepherd is guiding the dog and the dog is exhibiting self-control. Ideally this is how we want our collie to be with us. If he is checking in with us to find out what do next not only is he under control and less likely to get himself into trouble, but he is also getting reassurance from us. He doesn't have to worry; we will tell him what to do in any situation. Encourage your dog to look to you for guidance; it shouldn't be too hard, it's in his genesl

Watch the shepherd to, he has to keep very calm and guide his dog at all times. You just don't see excitable shepherds, an excitable shepherd would mean an excited dog and scattered sheep! Be a calm owner. Think about this if you are considering Agility or Flyball with your Collie, a good working sheep dog is fast and has lightning reflexes, but is not in a state of over-excitement. Teach your dog calmly what you want him to do. If he understands and is enjoying what he is doing he will do his best; after all he has been bred from generations of dogs selected for their willingness to work as a team with their handler. There is no need for your dog to be roused to a hysterical state for it to perform well, and it is bad for its mental and physical health to be in such a state. If your dog shows signs of stress or gets over-excited ask yourself is this is really the best activity for him.

A final thought... when a working sheepdog is not working alongside the shepherd he is shut away in a quiet, non-stimulating place to rest and recover and to keep him out of mischief! Importantly, adrenalin levels that have probably been quite high while he is working now have a chance to return to normal. Your sensitive, alert pet Collie is being bombarded with information from his environment all the time; make sure he has plenty of opportunity to rest in a secure, non-stimulating place where he can relax.

Think Border Collies, think working sheepdogs.....maximise their strengths,
understand and respect their weaknesses.

Training links (click on link in 2nd column)

Training - Chase Instinct - how to stop the 'Chase' instinct by David Ryan CLICK HERE FOR CHASE INFO 
Training - Clubs - Agility - Somerset (Lesley Skinner - Valgrays Owner) CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE
Training - Clubs - Agility - Surrey (Lin Bergan - Valgrays Owner)CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE 
Training - Clubs - Obedience - East Grinstead (Kennel Club Reg Club)CLICK HERE FOR EG CLUB 
Training - Clubs - Obedience - Suffolk (highly recommended by Shirley) CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE 
Training - Clicker Training - Dog aggression whilst handled - changed by clickerCLICK HERE FOR VIDEO 
Training - Clicker Training - Heel - Getting a dog to walk to heel CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO  
Training - Clicker Training - 'Leave it' training videoCLICK HERE FOR VIDEO
Training - Clicker Training - Puppies - Youtube videoCLICK HERE FOR PUP VIDEOS 
Training - Clicker Training - '300 peck' approach to trainingCLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE
Training - Clicker Training - Various advice CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE
Training - Dog Aggression - 'He only wants to say Hi' articleCLICK HERE FOR ARTICLE
Training - Dog Aggression article states using dominant methods = dog aggressionCLICK HERE FOR ARTICLE
Training - 'Dominance Theory'CLICK HERE FOR ARTICLE
'new' TrainingDown - information on how to train the 'down'CLICK HERE FOR DOWN 
Training - Working Trials training for Pets - teach your dog a fun gameCLICK HERE FOR ARTICLE 
Training - General helpful articles by David Ryan (click on blue wording links)CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE
'new' TrainingHeel - information on how to start to train the 'Heel' CLICK HERE FOR STARTING HEEL 
'new' TrainingHeel - information on how to move on with the 'Heel' CLICK HERE FOR HEELING INFO
'new' TrainingHeel - information tips on training the 'Heel' CLICK FOR HEELING TIPS
Training - Heel - video on teaching walk on loose lead at heelCLICK HERE FOR VIDEO
Training - Ian Dunbar - download help sheets by clicking on square symbolCLICK HERE FOR IAN DUNBAR
Training - Ian Dunbar - video of his training principles CLICK HERE FOR IAN VIDEO
'new' TrainingRecall  - information on how to train the 'recall' CLICK FOR RECALL INFO
'new' TrainingSit - information on how to train the 'sit' CLICK FOR SIT TRAINING INFO
Training - USA site - you can click on various training issuesCLICK HERE FOR USA TRAINING

Interesting Article on Collies  (extract reprinted with kind permisson from the Author)

Time to stop knocking the Collie


by Wendy Beasley       26 Jun 2008 

Have-a-go attitude
It seems that the North West Club inspires a real have-a-go attitude in their members and their enthusiasm has certainly paid off. Unfortunately Pam also added the rider, ‘please notice how thin on the ground the Collies are’, which sadly demonstrates how pleased people are to see any breed but Collies doing well. I wonder why this is? As a Collie owner myself I am always delighted to see other breeds achieving success, and really enjoy the challenge of finding out what makes them tick and how to get the best from them, for they are all different. However, I do not belong to the school of thought that thinks that Collies are easy, and therefore their achievements are somehow of less value than those of other breeds. And yet I encounter this attitude from many non-Collie owners and I do not think it is limited to my sport.
I am in the fortunate position of having worked other breeds, both my own and other people’s, and so can make an informed decision as to whether Collies are an easy option, and in my opinion what you gain in enthusiasm and willingness to learn can be outweighed by sensitivity, obsession and excitability which, in the wrong hands can turn to hysteria and madness. Yes they are quick to learn, but as I try to explain to new puppy owners, they learn all the wrong things just as quickly as the right and, unlike most other breeds, they need input almost from day one otherwise they can have invented their own entertainment and be lost by the time they are six months old.
Very much creatures of habit, Collies can almost be programmed, and this can be an advantage as obedience handlers have no doubt discovered but, as with computers, a bad programmer equals a crashed machine and correct programming can be a complex and time consuming procedure.
In the world of horses you will often see adverts, which state ‘not a beginner ride,’ and I think this equally applies to Collies. Unlike other breeds, if you make a mistake when training your Collie it is likely that you will struggle to put it right. Whereas it seems to me that other breeds just get over it and re-learn the right thing, with the Collie it is ‘once learned, never forgotten.’ Their speed and high drive can leave a new dog owner perplexed, and as a very wise dog man once said to me, “With Collies you have to make sure that the brain is on the right end of the lead!”
It is this very brilliance that makes the Collie either a winner or a nightmare and which seems to cause the love/hate divide which applies to this breed more than any other. That said, there is no doubt that to their devotees (and I count myself among them) that there is no other breed to match them, and very few of us change from our Collies to something else.
However, like all dogs they are individuals within the breed, and with so many being bred as show dogs and pets, much of the high drive and enthusiasm has been diluted, so it is possible now to get something that looks like a Collie but does not behave like one. Unfortunately for the unwary pet owner, what they bought as a fluffy black and white pup like the one their friend has, could be straight off a farm and bursting to work, and these are the ones that fill the rescue centres or at worst the vets’ surgeries!


Ultimate canine
All in all, for me the Collie is the ultimate canine athlete, and although I admire many of the other breeds, love to see them working and believe that any dog of any breed should be given the opportunity to do something, the Collie suits me best, and I think that is what it is all about.
We should all choose a breed that suits our temperament and ability rather than one that is known to win. I have seen good handlers do wonderful things with dogs of any breed and I have seen good dogs ruined by bad handlers so, at the end of the day, let’s all stop knocking the Collie and enjoy seeing good dogs of any breed achieve success with good handlers.


Reprinted from Dog World June 2008 with written permission of author : Wendy Beasley

Highly recommended modern training methods dog book ..

Haynes Dog Manual   by Carolyn Menteith

 

Review by Shirley Budgen :  March 2007

 

There are a lot of basic training books out there, but this one shines through as a really useful addition to anyone’s book shelf.   Although aimed at educating a first time dog owner (very good section on choosing the right dog for the job!), it also has excellent coverage of common behaviour problem solving and an extensive range of fun tricks to teach your dog (including closing doors, ’waving’ through to skateboarding!). 

 

The author pushes home how much time and effort goes into taking on and looking after a dog, all explained in an easy manner, but with no punches pulled if necessary.   All the exercises are taught using fun & reward based training (clicker training is covered in its basics).  There is no pulling, pushing or yanking recommended at any stage.  Agility has a couple of pages, sadly no mention of competitive obedience, or other dog sports. 

 

I did find one paragraph worrying however, where the author recommended trying out erratic, provoking behaviour in the company of a friendly dog – the aim was to prove how unpredictable a dog can be around children.   This one paragraph aside I found this an excellent book, supported by appropriate beautiful (often cute) photographs. 

Separation problems, resource guarding, chasing behaviours are all covered in this book;  along with that wonderful habit of ‘poo eating’ where one of the author’s comments was ‘a cat litter tray is virtually a fast food restaurant to your dog’.

Humour and fun in dog training, how wonderful!

A book highly recommended for yourself or doggy friend.

Highly recommended behavioural dog book ..

Shirley 100% recommends the dog behaviour/training book 'Control Unleashed' by Leslie McDevitt .. its available on the link below

CONTROL UNLEASHED by Leslie McDevitt

Learn how to turn stress to confidence and distraction to focus using methods that are 110% positive. Leslie McDevitt's versatile Control Unleashed program is designed to help "dogs with issues" learn how to relax, focus, and work off-leash reliably in either stimulating or stressful situations.

CLICK HERE TO SEE CONTROL UNLEASHED AND OTHER 'POSITIVE' TRAINING BOOKS

Outdated training methods

Using “dominance” to explain dog behaviour is old hat

Press release issued 21 May 2009

Paper in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research

A dog baring its teeth

The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some innate desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous. It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs.

Dr Rachel Casey

A new study shows how the behaviour of dogs has been misunderstood for generations: in fact using misplaced ideas about dog behaviour and training is likely to cause rather than cure unwanted behaviour.  The findings challenge many of the dominance related interpretations of behaviour and training techniques suggested by some TV dog trainers.

Contrary to popular belief, aggressive dogs are NOT trying to assert their dominance over their canine or human “pack”, according to research published by academics at the University of Bristol’s Department of Clinical Veterinary Sciences in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research.

The researchers spent six months studying dogs freely interacting at a Dogs Trust rehoming centre, and reanalysing data from studies of feral dogs, before concluding that individual relationships between dogs are learnt through experience rather than motivated by a desire to assert “dominance”.

 The paper “Dominance in domestic dogs – useful construct or bad habit?” reveals that dogs are not motivated by maintaining their place in the pecking order of their pack, as many well-known dog trainers preach.

Far from being helpful, the academics say, training approaches aimed at “dominance reduction” vary from being worthless in treatment to being actually dangerous and likely to make behaviours worse. 

Instructing owners to eat before their dog or go through doors first will not influence the dog’s overall perception of the relationship – merely teach them what to expect in these specific situations.  Much worse, techniques such as pinning the dog to the floor, grabbing jowls, or blasting hooters at dogs will make dogs anxious, often about their owner, and potentially lead to an escalation of aggression.

Dr Rachel Casey, Senior Lecturer in Companion Animal Behaviour and Welfare at Bristol University, said:  “The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some innate desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous.  It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs. It also leads to the use of coercive training techniques, which compromise welfare, and actually cause problem behaviours.

“In our referral clinic we very often see dogs which have learnt to show aggression to avoid anticipated punishment. Owners are often horrified when we explain that their dog is terrified of them, and is showing aggression because of the techniques they have used – but its not their fault when they have been advised to do so, for example by unqualified ‘behaviourists’ recommending such techniques.”

At Dogs Trust, the UK’s largest dog welfare charity, rehoming centre staff see the results of misguided dog training all the time.  Veterinary Director Chris Laurence MBE, added: “We can tell when a dog comes in to us which has been subjected to the ‘dominance reduction technique’ so beloved of TV dog trainers.  They can be very fearful, which can lead to aggression towards people.

“Sadly, many techniques used to teach a dog that his owner is leader of the pack is counter-productive; you won’t get a better behaved dog, but you will either end up with a dog so fearful it has suppressed all its natural behaviours and will just do nothing, or one so aggressive it’s dangerous to be around.”

Please contact Joanne Fryer for further information.

Further information:

The paper: ‘Dominance in domestic dogs – useful construct or bad habit? by John W. S. Bradshaw, Emily J. Blackwell, Rachel A. Casey. Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research, Volume 4, Issue 3, Pages 109-144 (May-June 2009). The academics would like to thank Claire Cooke and Nicola Robertson for permission to describe their study of freely interacting dogs, Dogs Trust for providing access to a group of dogs. Support for academic posts from the Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition, RSPCA and Cats Protection is also acknowledged.

Outdated training methods = aggressive dogs (newspaper article) ..

Training dogs the Woodhouse Way 'makes

 them more aggressive'

By Fay Schlesinger
Last updated at 1:35 AM on 22nd May 2009

 

When Barbara Woodhouse ordered us to bark out ‘sit’ or ‘walkies’, we all obeyed.

But perhaps we shouldn’t have followed her lead so faithfully.  Experts now believe that ‘ dominance’ dog training methods championed by Mrs Woodhouse in the 1980s do more harm than good.  Efforts to gain the upper hand could actually cause aggressive behaviour, they said.

Barbara Woodhouse training a dog

Sit! The way Barbara Woodhouse trained dogs (above) could make them anxious

The late Mrs Woodhouse became a household name with her TV series Training Dogs the Woodhouse Way.

She famously said that there were ‘no bad dogs’, only owners who lacked experience at asserting the pecking order.

Her ideas have been carried on by those such as Victoria Stilwell, who presented the family and pet counselling show It’s Me or the Dog on Channel 4.

But the researchers at the University of Bristol rubbished the idea that dogs always try to assert dominance over a canine or human ‘pack’.

Therefore forceful control by owners simply frightens animals and leads to anxiety, they said. The team spent six months studying interaction at a Dogs Trust re-homing centre and re-analysing data from studies of wild dogs.

Dr Rachel Casey, senior lecturer in Companion Animal Behaviour and Welfare, said: ‘In our referral clinic we very often see dogs which have learned to show aggression to avoid anticipated punishment.

‘Owners are often horrified when we explain that their dog is terrified of them and is showing aggression because of the techniques they have used. But it’s not their fault when they have been advised to do so, or watched unqualified  "behaviourists” recommending such techniques on TV.’

The team said that pinning a dog to the floor, grabbing its jowls or blasting hooters could make the animal anxious.

And having owners eat before their dog or go through doors first does not influence a dog’s perception of its relationship with the person, according to the study published in the Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, Clinical Applications and Research.

Dr Casey said: ‘ The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some innate desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous.

‘It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs.’

Dogs Trust veterinary director Chris Laurence added: ‘We can tell when a dog comes in to us which has been subjected to the “ dominance reduction technique” so beloved of TV dog trainers.

‘They can be very fearful, which can lead to aggression towards people. Sadly, many techniques used to teach a dog that his owner is leader of the pack are counter-productive.’